Thinking Through Fashion

A Guide to Key Theorists
Author: Agnès Rocamora
Publisher: I.B.Tauris
ISBN: 0857739867
Category: Art
Page: 320
View: 3992

Continue Reading →

Learning how to think through fashion is both exciting and challenging, being dependent on one’s ability to critically engage with an array of theories and concepts. This is the first book designed to accompany readers through the process of thinking through fashion. It aims to help them grasp both the relevance of social and cultural theory to fashion, dress, and material culture and, conversely, the relevance of those fields to social and cultural theory. It does so by offering a guide through the work of selected major thinkers, introducing their concepts and ideas. Each chapter is written by an expert contributor and is devoted to a key thinker, capturing the significance of their thought to the understanding of the field of fashion, while also assessing the importance of this field for a critical engagement with these thinkers’ ideas. This is a guide and reference for students and scholars in the fields of fashion, dress and material culture, the creative industries, sociology, cultural history, design and cultural studies.

Thinking Through Fashion

A Guide to the Key Theorists
Author: Agnès Rocamora
Publisher: I. B. Tauris
ISBN: 9781780767338
Category:
Page: 368
View: 550

Continue Reading →

The field of fashion is now a major topic of enquiry in social and cultural theory. However, students often find it difficult to apply key social and cultural theoretical frameworks and concepts to their study of fashion. This book is designed to fill this gap for a ‘how’ to think through fashion. Each chapter is a guide through the work of a selected major thinker, such as Marx, Freud, Simmel, Benjamin, Bakhtin, Barthes, Goffman, Deleuze, Foucault, Baudrillard and Butler, introducing key concepts and ideas, discussing how they have been appropriated by various authors to engage with the topics of fashion, dress and appearance, and looking at other ways in which they can be taken over to reflect on these topics.

Thinking Through Fashion

A Guide to the Key Theorists
Author: Agnes Rocamora,Anneke Smelik
Publisher: I. B. Tauris
ISBN: 9781780767345
Category:
Page: 320
View: 6971

Continue Reading →

Learning how to think through fashion is both exciting and challenging, being dependent on one s ability to critically engage with an array of theories and concepts. This is the first book designed to accompany readers through the process of thinking through fashion. It aims to help them grasp both the relevance of social and cultural theory to fashion, dress, and material culture and, conversely, the relevance of those fields to social and cultural theory. It does so by offering a guide through the work of selected major thinkers, introducing their concepts and ideas. Each chapter is written by an expert contributor and is devoted to a key thinker, capturing the significance of their thought to the understanding of the field of fashion, while also assessing the importance of this field for a critical engagement with these thinkers ideas. This is a guide and reference for students and scholars in the fields of fashion, dress and material culture, the creative industries, sociology, cultural history, design and cultural studies."

Adorned in Dreams

Fashion and Modernity
Author: Elizabeth Wilson
Publisher: Rutgers University Press
ISBN: 9780813533339
Category: Social Science
Page: 328
View: 6423

Continue Reading →

When Adorned in Dreams was first published in 1985, Angela Carter described the book as "the best I have read on the subject, bar none." From haute couture to haberdashery, "deviant" dress to Dior, Elizabeth Wilson traces the social and cultural history of fashion and its complex relationship to modernity. She also discusses fashion's vociferous opponents, from the "dress reform" movement to certain strands of feminism. Wilson delights in the power of fashion to mark out identity or subvert it. This brand new edition of her book follows recent developments to bring the story of fashionable dress up to date, exploring the grunge look inspired by bands like Nirvana, the "boho chic" of the mid 90's, retro-dressing, and the meanings of dress from the veil to soccer player David Beckham's pink-varnished toenails.

Fashion and Cultural Studies


Author: Susan B. Kaiser
Publisher: A&C Black
ISBN: 0857854313
Category: Design
Page: 288
View: 1254

Continue Reading →

Bridging theory and practice, this accessible text provides an introduction to fashion from both cultural studies and fashion studies perspectives, and addresses the growing interaction between the two fields. Cultural studies relies on fashion to exemplify change as well as continuity, examine identity and difference, agency and structure, and production and consumption. Fashion, meanwhile, benefits from the interpretative lens of cultural studies; its key concepts, contextual flexibility, and attention to bridging 'high' and 'popular' culture, contemporary and historical perspectives, and diverse identity issues and methodologies. Organised thematically, the book uses a wide range of cross-cultural case studies to explore ethnicity, class, gender and nation through fashion, and explains the ways in which these notions interact and overlap. Drawing on intersectionality theory in feminist theory and cultural studies, Fashion and Cultural Studies is essential reading for students and scholars.

Fashion-ology

An Introduction to Fashion Studies
Author: Yuniya Kawamura
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1474278493
Category: Design
Page: 168
View: 4203

Continue Reading →

This new edition of a classic work offers a concise introduction to the sociology of fashion, and demystifies the workings of the fashion system. From the origins of fashion studies and the difference between clothing and fashion, through to an examination of 21st century subcultures, and the impact of the digital age on designers, Fashion-ology explores fashion as a global, social construct. With accessible overviews of key debates, issues and perspectives, the book provides a complete exploration of the field, and features a wide range of international case studies which bring the theory to life. Updated with two new chapters on subcultures and the impact of technology, along with guides to further reading and a student guide to sociological research in fashion, this is essential reading for anyone studying fashion, sociology, anthropology, and cultural studies.

Fashion Theory

A Reader
Author: Malcolm Barnard
Publisher: Routledge
ISBN: 1351567241
Category: Design
Page: 610
View: 3013

Continue Reading →

From its beginnings in the fifteenth century, intensified interest in fashion and the study of fashion over the last thirty years has led to a vast and varied literature on the subject. This collection of essays surveys and contextualizes the ways in which a wide range of disciplines have used a variety of theoretical approaches to explain, and sometimes to explain away, the astonishing variety, complexity and beauty of fashion. Themes covered include individual, social and gender identity, the erotic, consumption and communication. By collecting together some of the most influential and important writers on fashion and exposing the ideas and theories behind what they say, this unique collection of extracts and essays brings to light the presuppositions involved in the things we think and say about fashion.

Experimental Fashion

Performance Art, Carnival and the Grotesque Body
Author: Francesca Granata
Publisher: I.B.Tauris
ISBN: 1784533793
Category: SOCIAL SCIENCE
Page: 217
View: 7284

Continue Reading →

Experimental Fashion traces the proliferation of the grotesque and carnivalesque within contemporary fashion and the close relation between fashion and performance art, from Lady Gaga's raw meat dress to Leigh Bowery's performance style. Francesca Granata examines the designers and performance artists at the turn of the twenty-first century whose work challenges established codes of what represents the fashionable body. These innovative people, she argues, make their challenges through dynamic strategies of parody, humor, and inversion. Experimental Fashion explores the experimental work of modern designers such as Georgina Godley, Bernhard Willhelm, Rei Kawakubo, and fashion designer, performance artist, and club figure, Leigh Bowery. It also discusses the increased centrality of experimental fashion through the pop phenomenon, Lady Gaga.

The Culture of Fashion


Author: Christopher Breward
Publisher: Manchester University Press
ISBN: 9780719041259
Category: Design
Page: 244
View: 2159

Continue Reading →

This illustrated survey of 600 years of fashion investigates its cultural and social meaning from medieval Europe to twentieth-century America. Breward's work provides the reader with a clear guide to the changes in style and taste and shows that clothes have always played a pivotal role in defining a sense of identity and society, especially when concerned with sexual and body politics.

The Fashioned Body

Fashion, Dress and Social Theory
Author: Joanne Entwistle
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons
ISBN: 0745689396
Category: Business & Economics
Page: 272
View: 8388

Continue Reading →

The Fashioned Body provides a wide-ranging and original overview of fashion and dress from an historical and sociological perspective. Where once fashion was seen as marginal, it has now entered into core economic discourse focused around ideas about ‘cultural’ and ‘creative’ work as a major driver of developed economies. With a new preface and new material on the evolving fashion industry, this second edition gives a clear summary of the theories surrounding the role and function of fashion in modern society. Entwistle examines how fashion plays a crucial role in the formation of modern identity through its articulation of the body, gender and sexuality. The book offers a much needed synthesis between the literature on fashion and dress, and the sociology of the body, offering an updated critique of the issues raised in the first edition. Entwistle shows how an understanding of fashion and dress requires an understanding of the meanings acquired by the body in culture since it is the body that fashion speaks to and which is dressed in almost all social situations and encounters. She argues that while fashion refers to a specific system of dress originating in the west, all cultures ‘dress’ the body in the same way, making it a crucial feature of social order. Drawing on the work of theorists, the book offers insights into the connections that need to be made between the body, fashion and dress. The Fashioned Body will be an invaluable resource for anyone interested in the social role of fashion and dress in modern culture.

Fashioning Memory

Vintage Style and Youth Culture
Author: Heike Jenss
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 147426199X
Category: Design
Page: 192
View: 6282

Continue Reading →

The valuing of old clothes as "vintageÂ?? and the recollection of the sartorial past, whether through second-hand consumption or the wearing of new old-fashioned clothes, has become a widespread phenomenon. This book illuminates sartorial and bodily engagements with memory and time through the temporal and nostalgic potency of fashion, and what this means for contemporary wearers. Based on in-depth ethnographic research including participant observation and interviews with sixties enthusiasts in Germany, who relocate British mod style into the twenty-first century, Jenss examines the practices and experiences that are part of the sartorial remembering of "the sixties,Â?? from hunting flea markets and eBay, to the affect of material and mediated memories on vintage wearers. Jenss offers unique insights into the fashioning of time, cultural memory, and modernity, tracing the history and current appeal of vintage in fashion and youth culture, and asking: what kind of experiences of temporality and memory are enacted through fashion? How have evaluations of second-hand clothes shifted in the twentieth century? Fashioning Memory provides a unique insight into the diverse use of fashion as a memory mode and asks how style is remembered, performed, transformed, and reinvested across time, place, and generation.

Fashion

A Canadian Perspective
Author: Alexandra Palmer
Publisher: University of Toronto Press
ISBN: 9780802085900
Category: Design
Page: 382
View: 7638

Continue Reading →

Controversial and unconventional, this collection examines Canadian identity in terms of the fashion worn and designed over the last three centuries, and the internal and external influences of those socio-cultural decisions.

Identities Through Fashion

A Multidisciplinary Approach
Author: Ana Marta González,Laura Bovone
Publisher: Berg
ISBN: 0857851187
Category: Design
Page: 240
View: 8670

Continue Reading →

Fashion has become a fertile field of study for academics across disciplines, now that the rules, once tightly fixed, have been deconstructed. This volume brings together academics from various disciplines - philosophy, sociology, medicine, anthropology, psychology and psychiatry - to examine fashion's complex relationship with post-industrial societies. Herein the authors address, from the standpoint of their respective disciplines, what crucial functions fashion fulfils in the modern world, especially as it relates to the construction and deconstruction of the self. This volume is the result of a conference held by the Social Trends Institute at which the authors presented original papers. The Social Trends Institute is a non-profit research centre that offers institutional and financial support to academics in all fields who research and explore emerging social trends and their effects on human communities. The Institute focuses its research on four main subject areas: family, bioethics, culture and lifestyles, and corporate governance.

Fashion and Its Social Agendas

Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing
Author: Diana Crane
Publisher: University of Chicago Press
ISBN: 0226924831
Category: Social Science
Page: 304
View: 4365

Continue Reading →

It has long been said that clothes make the man (or woman), but is it still true today? If so, how has the information clothes convey changed over the years? Using a wide range of historical and contemporary materials, Diana Crane demonstrates how the social significance of clothing has been transformed. Crane compares nineteenth-century societies—France and the United States—where social class was the most salient aspect of social identity signified in clothing with late twentieth-century America, where lifestyle, gender, sexual orientation, age, and ethnicity are more meaningful to individuals in constructing their wardrobes. Today, clothes worn at work signify social class, but leisure clothes convey meanings ranging from trite to political. In today's multicode societies, clothes inhibit as well as facilitate communication between highly fragmented social groups. Crane extends her comparison by showing how nineteenth-century French designers created fashions that suited lifestyles of Paris elites but that were also widely adopted outside France. By contrast, today's designers operate in a global marketplace, shaped by television, film, and popular music. No longer confined to elites, trendsetters are drawn from many social groups, and most trends have short trajectories. To assess the impact of fashion on women, Crane uses voices of college-aged and middle-aged women who took part in focus groups. These discussions yield fascinating information about women's perceptions of female identity and sexuality in the fashion industry. An absorbing work, Fashion and Its Social Agendas stands out as a critical study of gender, fashion, and consumer culture. "Why do people dress the way they do? How does clothing contribute to a person's identity as a man or woman, as a white-collar professional or blue-collar worker, as a preppie, yuppie, or nerd? How is it that dress no longer denotes social class so much as lifestyle? . . . Intelligent and informative, [this] book proposes thoughtful answers to some of these questions."-Library Journal

Fashion as Communication


Author: Malcolm Barnard
Publisher: Routledge
ISBN: 1136412972
Category: Language Arts & Disciplines
Page: 224
View: 6681

Continue Reading →

What kinds of things do fashion and clothing say about us? What does it mean to wear Gap or Gaultier, Milletts or Moschino? Are there any real differences between Hip-Hop style and Punk anti-styles? In this fully revised and updated edition, Malcolm Barnard introduces fashion and clothing as ways of communicating and challenging class, gender, sexual and social identities. Drawing on a range of theoretical approaches from Barthes and Baudrillard to Marxist, psychoanalytic and feminist theory, Barnard addresses the ambivalent status of fashion in contemporary culture.

Fashioning the City

Paris, Fashion and the Media
Author: Agnes Rocamora
Publisher: I.B.Tauris
ISBN: 0857731130
Category: Social Science
Page: 256
View: 3215

Continue Reading →

The fashion media have been central to the consecration of the city of Paris on the fashion map, as well as its celebration in the collective imagination. Indeed, with its conjunction of images and words, the fashion press constitutes a rich platform for an interrogation of how Paris has come to be constituted as a leading fashion city. Yet while much attention has been paid to the making of Paris in the work of various writers and artists, little is known about the city as defined and created by the fashion media. Based on an original analysis of fashion writing and images in contemporary French fashion magazines and newspapers, this illuminating book focuses on the discourse of the contemporary French fashion press on Paris, and so attends to this gap in studies of the French capital. Agnès Rocamora explores, for example, the figures of la Parisienne and la passante (the female passer-by), and the presence of the Eiffel Tower in fashion visuals. She gives attention to the continuum between the French journalistic discourse and that of cultural forms such as films, paintings and literature, thus revealing the persistence across texts and time of visions of Paris and shedding light on the production and reproduction of the Paris myth.

Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion


Author: Giovanni Matteucci,Stefano Marino
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1474237487
Category: Design
Page: 208
View: 7291

Continue Reading →

Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion places philosophical approaches at the heart of contemporary fashion studies. Considering the mutual relationships between aesthetics, modern society and culture, fashion and the fine arts, and the way these relationships have influenced and shaped our views on identity and taste, this ground-breaking book also explores the various intellectual and cultural movements that inform how people dress. In the context of the most recent debates, the leading fashion and philosophy scholars contributing to this volume refer to and apply theories posed by key thinkers of the modern and contemporary age, from Darwin and Wittgenstein to Husserl and Goodman, in order to answer questions such as: What is the essence of fashion and the reasons behind its fascination? What is 'anti-fashion'? What or who do we imitate when we 'follow' fashion? What is fashion criticism and what should it be? Anyone studying or interested in fashion, philosophy or art will find this book a rich source of ideas, insight and information. Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion is a valuable contribution to contemporary fashion theory and aesthetics, one that revitalizes the way we look at the form, purpose and meaning of fashion and aesthetic experience.

Fashion and Everyday Life

London and New York
Author: Cheryl Buckley,Hazel Clark
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1474273122
Category: Design
Page: 328
View: 5711

Continue Reading →

Taking cultural theorist Michel de Certeau's notion of 'the everyday' as a critical starting point, this book considers how fashion shapes and is shaped by everyday life. Looking historically for the imprint of fashion within everyday routines such as going to work or shopping, or in leisure activities like dancing, the book identifies the 'fashion system of the ordinary', in which clothing has a distinct role in the making of self and identity. Exploring the period from 1890 to 2010, the study is located in London and New York, cities that emerged as as socially, ethnically and culturally diverse, as well as increasingly fashionable. The book re-focuses fashion discourse away from well-trodden, power-laden dynamics, towards a re-evaluation of time, memory, and above all history, and their relationship to fashion and everyday life. The importance of place and space - and issues of gender, race and social class - provides the broader framework, revealing fashion as both routine and exceptional, and as an increasingly significant part of urban life. By focusing on key themes such as clothing the city, what is worn on the streets, the imagining and performing of multiple identities by dressing up and down, going out, and showing off, Fashion and Everyday Life makes a unique contribution to the literature of fashion studies, fashion history, cultural studies, and beyond.

Fashion Studies

Research Methods, Sites and Practices
Author: Heike Jenss
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1472583191
Category: Social Science
Page: 256
View: 5980

Continue Reading →

The study of fashion has expanded into a thriving field of inquiry, with researchers utilizing diverse methods from across subject disciplines to explore fashion and dress in wide-ranging contexts. With an emphasis on material culture and ethnographic approaches in fashion studies, this groundbreaking volume offers fascinating insights into the complex dynamics of research and fashion. Featuring unique case studies, with interdisciplinary scholars reflecting on their practical research experiences, Fashion Studies provides rich and nuanced perspectives on the use, and mixing and matching of methodological approaches Â? including object and image based research, the integration of qualitative and quantitative methods and the fluid bridging of theory and practice. Engaging with diverse subjects, from ethnographies of model casting and street-style blogging, wardrobe studies and a material culture analysis of global denim wearing, to Martin Margiela's design and archival methods, Fashion Studies presents complex approaches in a lively and informative manner that will appeal to students of fashion, anthropology, sociology, cultural studies and related fields.

Delft Blue to Denim Blue

Contemporary Dutch Fashion
Author: Anneke Smelik
Publisher: I.B.Tauris
ISBN: 1784531979
Category: Business & Economics
Page: 295
View: 6842

Continue Reading →

Contemporary fashion in the Netherlands is successful globally and shows a rich, paradoxical diversity. Delft Blue to Denim Blue maps the landscape of Dutch fashion in all its rich variety and complexity. Luxuriously illustrated in colour and black & white, The book uncovers the cultural heritage of Dutch fashion and explores the individual designers and brands, including romantic designer Jan Taminiau who creates spectacular gala gowns for Queen Maxima, Iris Van Herpen, Kichael Van Der Ham and conceptual designer duo Viktor&Rolf, as well as the many popular brands, such as G-Star jeans, Mexx, Supertrash, CoraKemperman, Vanilla, Sjaak Hullekes, and the affordable retailer, C&A. Fashion photographers like Inez Van Lamsweerde and Erwin Olaf are explored too. Delft Blue to Denim Blue also looks into the future of Dutch fashion, discussing the vanguard of wearable technology, with cybercouture designers like Pauline vanDongen and Bart Hess