Saltwater Buddha

A Surfers Quest to Find Zen on the Sea (Large Print 16pt)
Author: Mu Soeng,Jaimal Yogis
Publisher: ReadHowYouWant.com
ISBN: 1458783863
Category:
Page: 192
View: 2515

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Fed up with teenage life, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddharth a and enough cash for a surfboard. His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries, from the warm Pacific to the icy New York shore. Equal parts spiritual memoir and surfer's tale, this is a chronicle of finding meditative focus in the barrel of a wave and eternal truth in the great salty blue.

Saltwater Buddha

A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
Author: Jaimal Yogis
Publisher: Simon and Schuster
ISBN: 0861719980
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Page: 200
View: 4114

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Fed up with teenage life in the suburbs, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha and enough cash for a surfboard. His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries, from the warm Pacific to the icy New York shore. Equal parts spiritual memoir and surfer's tale, this is a chronicle of finding meditative focus in the barrel of a wave and eternal truth in the great salty blue.

Saltwater Buddha

A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
Author: Jaimal Yogis
Publisher: Simon and Schuster
ISBN: 0861715357
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Page: 238
View: 3162

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Chronicles the author's teenage journey to Hawaii, where he applied the principles of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha to his surfing adventures, an effort that eventually took him to the shores of New York and the monasteries of France in search of a better understanding of the spiritual nature of the sport. Original.

Caught Inside

A Surfer's Year on the California Coast
Author: Daniel Duane
Publisher: Macmillan
ISBN: 9780865475090
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Page: 256
View: 695

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Recounts a year of surfing in California, shares observations on Pacific shore ecology, and looks at the history of the state and surfing

The Fear Project

What Our Most Primal Emotion Taught Me About Survival, Success, Surfing . . . an d Love
Author: Jaimal Yogis
Publisher: Rodale Books
ISBN: 1609611764
Category: Self-Help
Page: 272
View: 8505

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An epic adventure full of incredible characters, death-defying athletic achievement, and bleeding edge science, The Fear Project began with one question: how can we overcome our fears to reach our full potential? Who among us has not been paralyzed by fear? In The Fear Project, award-winning journalist and surfer Jaimal Yogis sets out to better understand fear-why does it so often dominate our lives, what makes it tick, and is there even a way to use it to our advantage? In the process, he plunges readers into great white shark-infested waters, brings them along to surf 40+ foot waves in the dead of winter, and gives them access to some of the world's best neuroscience labs, psychologists, and extreme athletes. In this entertaining, often laugh-out-loud narrative, Yogis also treats himself like a guinea pig for all of his research, pushing his own fears repeatedly to the limits-in his sport, in his life, and in love. Ultimately, Yogis shares with his readers the best strategies to emerge triumphant from even the most paralyzing of fears. The Fear Project gives you insight into: - How fear evolved in the human brain - How to tell the difference between "good fear" and "bad fear" - How to use the latest neuroscience to transform fear memories - Why fear spreads between us and how to counteract fearful "group think" - How to turn fear into a performance enhancer - athletically and at work In pursuing this terrifying-and often thrilling-journey with Yogis, we learn how to move through fear and unlock a sense of renewed possibility and a more rewarding life.

All Our Waves Are Water

Stumbling Toward Enlightenment and the Perfect Ride
Author: Jaimal Yogis
Publisher: HarperCollins
ISBN: 0062405209
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Page: 272
View: 2582

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In this meditative memoir—a compelling fusion of Barbarian Days and the journals of Thomas Merton—the author of Saltwater Buddha reflects on his "failing toward enlightenment," his continued search to find meaning and a greater understanding of grace in the world’s oceans as well as everyday life. Born to a family of seekers, Jaimal Yogis left home at sixteen to surf in Hawaii and join a monastery—an adventure he chronicled in Saltwater Buddha. Now, in his early twenties, his heart is broken and he’s lost his way. Hitting the road again, he lands in a monastery in Dharamsala, where he meets Sonam, a displaced Tibetan. To help his friend, Jaimal makes a cockamamie attempt to reunite him with his family in Tibet by way of America. Though he does not succeed, witnessing Sonam’s spirit in the face of failure offers Jaimal a deeper understanding of faith. When the two friends part, he cannot fathom the unlikely circumstances that will reunite them. All Our Waves Are Water follows Jaimal’s trek from the Himalayas to Indonesia; to a Franciscan Friary in New York City to the dusty streets of Jerusalem; and finally to San Francisco’s Ocean Beach. Along his journey, Jaimal prays and surfs; mourning a lost love and seeking something that keeps eluding him. The poet Rumi wrote, "We are not a drop in the ocean. We are the ocean in a drop." All Our Waves Are Water is Jaimal’s "attempt to understand the ocean in a drop, to find that one moon shining in the water everywhere"—to find the mystery that unites us.

Surfer's Code - 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life


Author: Shaun Tomson,Patrick Moser
Publisher: Penguin Random House South Africa
ISBN: 0143527185
Category: Sports & Recreation
Page: 107
View: 9709

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Surfing has been described as a sport, a religion, an obsession and a way of life. For Shaun Tomson, world champion surfer and successful entrepreneur, surfing is all of that and more. In Surfer's Code, Tomson shares the life lessons he's gathered over many years of surfing - from his boyhood in South Africa to the World Tour in the 70s and 80s. While the lessons Tomson shares are taken from beaches all over the world, they translate powerfully to everyday life and the extraordinary challenges we face. They reflect the attitude and outlook necessary to survive not only the ups and downs of life, but to master them and emerge a winner. His lessons include: I will never turn my back on the ocean; I will always paddle back out; I will watch out for other surfers; there will always be another wave; I will catch a wave every day.

Women Who Surf

Charging Waves with the World's Best
Author: Ben Marcus,Lucia Griggi
Publisher: Rowman & Littlefield
ISBN: 1493024868
Category: Sports & Recreation
Page: 248
View: 7107

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Mavericks and more, a celebration of feminine beauty, athleticism, wisdom, and skill when the surf is bombing—Women Who Surf profiles some of the world’s most inspiring female surfers ranging from Bethany Hamilton to Wrenna Delgado. Each surfer tells her story, highlighting her personal challenges, accomplishments, and philosophy, as well as inspiring readers and providing them with practical how-to suggestions on maximizing not only their own potential in surfing but in life as they lead the charge and push their limits at infamous big-wave spots like Teahupoo in Tahiti, Waimea Bay, and Peahi/Jaws in the Hawaiian Islands. The profiles by accomplished author and editor Ben Marcus are complemented by stunning color photography by leading adventure photojournalist Lucia Griggi. Featured surfers: 1. Rochelle Ballard 2. Wrenna Delgado 3. Bethany Hamilton 4. Maya Gabeira 5. Keala Kennelly 6. Andrea Moller 7. Leah Dawson 8. Mercedes Maidana 9. Easkey Britton 10. Alana Blanchard 11. Bianca Valenti 12. Paige Alms 13. Alison Teal 14. Sally Fitzgibbons 15. Rosy Hodge 16. Janet Macpherson 17. Pauline Ado

West of Jesus

Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief
Author: Steven Kotler
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA
ISBN: 9781596918351
Category: Sports & Recreation
Page: 272
View: 3937

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After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind. Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith. Why, he wondered, when there was nothing left to believe in, could he begin to believe in something as unlikely as surfing? What was belief anyway? How did it work in the body, the brain, our culture, and human history? With the help of everyone from rebel surfers to rocket scientists, Kotler undertakes a three-year globetrotting quest. The results are a startling mix of big waves and bigger ideas: a surfer's journey into the biological underpinnings of belief itself.

Surf Is Where You Find It


Author: Gerry Lopez
Publisher: Patagonia
ISBN: 1938340256
Category: Sports & Recreation
Page: 240
View: 9646

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Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.

All for a Few Perfect Waves

The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora
Author: David Rensin
Publisher: Harper Collins
ISBN: 0061868167
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Page: 528
View: 3423

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For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him "the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce" and Vanity Fair called him "a dark prince of the beach." To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.

Thai Stick

Surfers, Scammers, and the Untold Story of the Marijuana Trade
Author: Peter Maguire,Mike Ritter
Publisher: Columbia University Press
ISBN: 0231161344
Category: Sports & Recreation
Page: 288
View: 9463

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Thailand’s capital, Krungtep, known as Bangkok to Westerners and “the City of Angels” to Thais, has been home to smugglers and adventurers since the late eighteenth century. During the 1970s, it became a modern Casablanca to a new generation of treasure seekers: from surfers looking to finance their endless summers to wide-eyed hippie true believers and lethal marauders leftover from the Vietnam War. Moving a shipment of Thai sticks from northeast Thailand farms to American consumers meant navigating one of the most complex smuggling channels in the history of the drug trade. Peter Maguire and Mike Ritter are the first historians to document this underground industry, the only record of its existence rooted in the fading memories of its elusive participants. Conducting hundreds of interviews with smugglers and law enforcement agents, the authors recount the buy, the delivery, the voyage home, and the product offload. They capture the eccentric personalities who transformed the Thai marijuana trade from a GI cottage industry into one of the world’s most lucrative commodities, unraveling a rare history from the smugglers’ perspective.

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell

A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
Author: Chas Smith
Publisher: Harper Collins
ISBN: 0062202545
Category: Sports & Recreation
Page: 256
View: 7976

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A finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime. For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu’s paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of some of the greatest waves on earth for surfing’s Triple Crown competition. Chas Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy, laid-back strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca. Smith captures this exciting and dangerous place where locals, outsiders, the surf industry, and criminal elements clash in a fascinating look at class, race, power, money, and crime, set within one of the most beautiful places on earth. The result is a breathtaking blend of crime and adventure that captures the allure and wickedness of this idyllic golden world.

Scratching the Horizon

A Surfing Life
Author: Izzy Paskowitz,Daniel Paisner
Publisher: St. Martin's Press
ISBN: 1250023998
Category: Sports & Recreation
Page: 304
View: 3091

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A bitchin' love letter to sand and sea, and a spirited inside account of life with the "first family" of American surfing In 1956, Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz stepped away from a successful medical practice and began a lifelong surfing odyssey that grew to include his wife Juliette, and their nine children. Together, the Paskowitz clan lived a vagabonding bohemian existence, eschewing material possessions in favor of intangible riches like health and good cheer . . . all the while careening along the world's coastlines in search of the perfect wave. In Scratching the Horizon, Izzy Paskowitz looks back at his unusual upbringing, and his lifelong passion for the sport that carries his family's stamp. As the fourth-oldest child in a family of inveterate surfers, rock stars, and beach bums, he is uniquely qualified to shine a light on a childhood that has come to symbolize the surfing credo, a reckless young adulthood that nearly cost him his sanity, and a maturing sense of self and purpose that allows him to lift others on the back of his experience. As the father of a son with autism and the founder of "Surfers Healing," a foundation devoted to expanding the horizons of children with autism through surfing, Paskowitz has found a way to connect the surreal aspects of his childhood to the harsh realities of adulthood, and he shares these discoveries in this wickedly entertaining and transforming memoir.

Kook

What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
Author: Peter Heller
Publisher: Simon and Schuster
ISBN: 1439171815
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Page: 336
View: 4770

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Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave— that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.

Barbarian Days

A Surfing Life
Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Penguin
ISBN: 0143109391
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Page: 464
View: 9086

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Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses -- off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.

Mindfulness and Surfing

Reflections for Saltwater Souls
Author: Sam Bleakley
Publisher: Leaping Hare Press
ISBN: 9781782403296
Category: Sports & Recreation
Page: 144
View: 4202

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Mindfulness and Surfing casts a fresh perspective on this popular sport, and explores how riding the waves can be the ultimate meditation. Engaging author Sam Bleakley takes us on a soulful journey across the tideline of his personal and philosophical travels. Through lunar cycles and river surfing to the Taoism of nature, he reveals an acute awareness of what the oceans can tell us about our place in the natural world. Meditating on one of nature's greatest elements - its salty swells, flow and peaks - he shares life lessons in mindfulness that will be relished by surfer and non-surfer alike.

In Search of Captain Zero

A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road
Author: Alan C. Weisbecker
Publisher: Tarcher
ISBN: 9781585421770
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Page: 352
View: 1092

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A surfer, photojournalist, and author describes his two-year odyssey from Mexico to Central America to search for his missing long-time friend and surfing companion, Christopher Conner, and his bizarre adventures along the way.

Surf Science

An Introduction to Waves for Surfing
Author: Tony Butt
Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers
ISBN: 9780906720899
Category: Sports & Recreation
Page: 136
View: 2542

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'Surf Science' looks at the science of waves from the surfers point of view. The book bridges the gap between surfing books and wave textbooks.

Pipe Dreams

A Surfer's Journey
Author: Kelly Slater
Publisher: Harper Collins
ISBN: 0060096314
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Page: 352
View: 8629

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Six–time world surfing champion, actor, and US heart–throb Kelly Slater tells of the struggles and triumphs he's experienced throughout his life and how they have helped him to become one of the world's most loved sports figures. From beach blanket bingo to Baywatch, surfing has fascinated people for years, and Kelly Slater is the sport's newest star. He's one of the world's most popular surfers; his radical moves have revolutionised the sport. Born in Cocoa Beach, Florida, in 1972, he found surfing to be a great way to escape problems at home. When he was 11, his parents divorced. Slater and his brother, Sean, were raised by their suddenly single mother, who struggled to support two young sons. After Slater's surfing career took off, he made the transition into acting and modelling. He spent a season starring on the popular television show Baywatch, where he won the hearts of women young and old, including Pamela Anderson, whom he dated for about a year. He has also been featured in Versace ads. In Pipe Dreams, he shares the stories that have influenced his life and have inspired him to overcome both personal and professional hurdles and achieve his dreams.