Inside the Royal Wardrobe

A Dress History of Queen Alexandra
Author: Kate Strasdin
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1474269958
Category: Design
Page: 192
View: 9844

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Queen Alexandra used clothes to fashion images of herself as a wife, a mother and a royal: a woman who both led Britain alongside her husband Edward VII and lived her life through fashion. Inside the Royal Wardrobe overturns the popular portrait of a vapid and neglected queen, examining the surviving garments of Alexandra, Princess of Wales – who later became Queen Consort – to unlock a rich tapestry of royal dress and society in the second half of the 19th century. More than 130 extraordinary garments from Alexandra's wardrobe survive, from sumptuous court dress and politicised fancy dress to mourning attire and elegant coronation gowns, and can be found in various collections around the world, from London, Oslo and Denmark to New York, Toronto and Tokyo. Curator and fashion scholar Kate Strasdin places these garments at the heart of this in-depth study, examining their relationships to issues such as body politics, power, celebrity, social identity and performance, and interpreting Alexandra's world from the objects out. Adopting an object-based methodology, the book features a range of original sources from letters, travel journals and newspaper editorials, to wardrobe accounts, memoirs, tailors' ledgers and business records. Revealing a shrewd and socially aware woman attuned to the popular power of royal dress, the work will appeal to students and scholars of costume, fashion and dress history, as well as of material culture and 19th century history.

Queen of Fashion

What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution
Author: Caroline Weber
Publisher: Henry Holt and Company
ISBN: 9781429936477
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Page: 432
View: 4132

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In this dazzling new vision of the ever-fascinating queen, a dynamic young historian reveals how Marie Antoinette's bold attempts to reshape royal fashion changed the future of France Marie Antoinette has always stood as an icon of supreme style, but surprisingly none of her biographers have paid sustained attention to her clothes. In Queen of Fashion, Caroline Weber shows how Marie Antoinette developed her reputation for fashionable excess, and explains through lively, illuminating new research the political controversies that her clothing provoked. Weber surveys Marie Antoinette's "Revolution in Dress," covering each phase of the queen's tumultuous life, beginning with the young girl, struggling to survive Versailles's rigid traditions of royal glamour (twelve-foot-wide hoopskirts, whalebone corsets that crushed her organs). As queen, Marie Antoinette used stunning, often extreme costumes to project an image of power and wage war against her enemies. Gradually, however, she began to lose her hold on the French when she started to adopt "unqueenly" outfits (the provocative chemise) that, surprisingly, would be adopted by the revolutionaries who executed her. Weber's queen is sublime, human, and surprising: a sometimes courageous monarch unwilling to allow others to determine her destiny. The paradox of her tragic story, according to Weber, is that fashion—the vehicle she used to secure her triumphs—was also the means of her undoing. Weber's book is not only a stylish and original addition to Marie Antoinette scholarship, but also a moving, revelatory reinterpretation of one of history's most controversial figures.

Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII


Author: Maria Hayward
Publisher: Routledge
ISBN: 1351569171
Category: History
Page: 488
View: 2841

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Henry VIII used his wardrobe, and that of his family and household, as a way of expressing his wealth and magnificence. This book encompasses the first detailed study of male and female dress worn at the court of Henry VIII (1509-47) and covers the dress of the king and his immediate family, the royal household and the broader court circle. Henry VIII's wardrobe is set in context by a study of Henry VII's clothes, court and household. ~ ~ As none of Henry VIII's clothes survive, evidence is drawn primarily from the great wardrobe accounts, wardrobe warrants, and inventories, and is interpreted using evidence from narrative sources, paintings, drawings and a small selection of contemporary garments, mainly from European collections. ~ ~ Key areas for consideration include the king's personal wardrobe, how Henry VIII's queens used their clothes to define their status, the textiles provided for the pattern of royal coronations, marriages and funerals and the role of the great wardrobe, wardrobe of the robes and laundry. In addition there is information on the cut and construction of garments, materials and colours, dr given as gifts, the function of livery and the hierarchy of dress within the royal household, and the network of craftsmen working for the court. The text is accompanied by full transcripts of James Worsley's wardrobe books of 1516 and 1521 which provide a brief glimpse of the king's clothes.

Kate's Style

Smart, Chic Fashion from a Royal Role Model
Author: Caroline Jones
Publisher: Barron's Educational Series
ISBN: 9781438003290
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Page: 175
View: 7811

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Offers a pictorial overview of the Duchess in over forty of her most iconic outfits, with analysis of the clothing and accessories, information about events at which they were worn, and tips for emulating her distinctive style.

Royal Style

A History of Aristocratic Fashion Icons
Author: Luise Wackerl
Publisher: Prestel Publishing
ISBN: 9783791346359
Category: Photography
Page: 191
View: 3669

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From Louis XIV, a shoe aficionado of the Baroque Age, to the latest club-hopping progeny of the British royalty, this colorful survey of aristocratic fashion through the ages will delight royal watchers of every generation. The wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton helped reclaim the fashion credibility of Britain's royal family, ushering in a generation of hip but genial personalities that appeal to every age and station. But royals have been setting fashion trends for centuries. This fascinating overview of aristocratic icons reaches back to the middle age, and from Europe to the Middle East, to profile the most renowned promoters of elegance and style ever to don their empires' crowns. Author and royals watcher Luise Wackerl juxtaposes the fifteenth-century Duke of Burgundy's penchant for black with Elizabeth I's taste for virginal white. She presents history's first "It Girls": Marie Antoinette, Louisa of Prussia, Empresses Sisi of Austria and Eugenie of France. She relates how Queen Victoria's sorrow and propriety transformed her country, and how an impeccably styled American's love for Edward VIII upended the British monarchy. From the irreproachably elegant styles of Grace Kelly to Lady Diana, Jordan's Queen Rania to Princess Letizia of Spain we move on to the newest icons, the Princesses Beatrice and Eugenie of York, whose faces and party antics grace the tabloids on a weekly basis. Hundreds of photos and a lively text make this irresistible reading for anyone interested in fashion, royalty, and the lively intersection of both worlds.

Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence


Author: Elizabeth Currie
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1474249779
Category: Design
Page: 224
View: 5776

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Dress became a testing ground for masculine ideals in Renaissance Italy. With the establishment of the ducal regime in Florence in 1530, there was increasing debate about how to be a nobleman. Was fashionable clothing a sign of magnificence or a source of mockery? Was the graceful courtier virile or effeminate? How could a man dress for court without bankrupting himself? This book explores the whole story of clothing, from the tailor's workshop to spectacular court festivities, to show how the male nobility in one of Italy's main textile production centers used their appearances to project social, sexual, and professional identities. Sixteenth-century male fashion is often associated with swagger and ostentation but this book shows that Florentine clothing reflected manhood at a much deeper level, communicating a very Italian spectrum of male virtues and vices, from honor, courage, and restraint to luxury and excess. Situating dress at the heart of identity formation, Currie traces these codes through an array of sources, including unpublished archival records, surviving garments, portraiture, poetry, and personal correspondence between the Medici and their courtiers. Addressing important themes such as gender, politics, and consumption, Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence sheds fresh light on the sartorial culture of the Florentine court and Italy as a whole.

Charles II

Art and Power
Author: Rufus Bird,Olivia Fryman
Publisher: N.A
ISBN: 9781909741447
Category: Art
Page: 496
View: 2118

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The Restoration era of the British monarchy covers the reigns of Charles II (1660-85) and James II (1685-8). This publication focuses on the art and culture of the Restoration court at this time, including the development of an 'English baroque' and the use of court ritual and art (especially decorative art) by both monarchs. 0This sumptuously illustrated book showcases the replacement crown jewels made for the coronation of Charles II in 1661, his collection of Italian Old Master paintings, drawings by Leonardo da Vinci and the spectacular furnishings of the palaces of Whitehall and St James's. 00Exhibition: Queen's Gallery, Buckingham Palace, London, United Kingdom (08.12.2017-13.05.2018).

Old clothes, new looks

second hand fashion
Author: Alexandra Palmer
Publisher: Berg Publishers
ISBN: 9781859738573
Category: Design
Page: 255
View: 9048

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Second-hand fashion has a history as old as the production of clothing itself, but until recently it was given little consideration. Used clothes represent the largest numbers of existing garments but until recently they were not perceived as serious fashion items. However, this has changed dramatically with the rise of vintage web sites, value clothing chains, and the fashion media's perpetuation of the idea that secondhand clothes can be recycled into avant-garde "cool". This book not only shows how important used clothing has become but also what role it plays in culture and history. The Japanese, for example, traditionally salvage sections of kimonos, while in India garments are inexhaustibly recycled. This cross-cultural and historical perspective fills a major gap by offering fresh insights into the innovative use of secondhand dress and age-old traditions of recycling fashion.

Kate

How to Dress Like a Style Icon - Fashion from a Royal Role Model
Author: Caroline Jones
Publisher: N.A
ISBN: 9781787390713
Category:
Page: 208
View: 8002

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Celebrate the timeless elegance of Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge--and see how she achieves her iconic look. Kate addicts everywhere will want this essential handbook, which analyzes 50 iconic outfits, including her jewelry, hats, shoes, and bags, revealing why her look works and how it can work for you. Discover her style secrets, favorite designers and shops, and beauty tricks. Boxes, sidebars and "do and don't" lists present style tips on hair, makeup, accessories, and how to put an outfit together like Kate. There's even a directory of Kate's favorite shops and designers--from High Street to couture--along with their websites and contact details. Updated to feature Kate's latest fashion choices, whether she's caring for her children or attending the latest high-profile event, it's perfect for fans of the Royals and the Duchess herself.

The Wardrobe Mistress

A Novel of Marie Antoinette
Author: Meghan Masterson
Publisher: St. Martin's Griffin
ISBN: 1250126673
Category: Fiction
Page: 320
View: 4852

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THE WARDROBE MISTRESS is Meghan Masterson's fascinating and visceral debut, an inside look at Marie Antoinette's luxurious life in Versailles remarkably juxtaposed against life in third estate as the French Revolution gains strength. A propulsive exploration of love, loyalty, danger, and intrigue...not to be missed. It's Giselle Aubry's first time at court in Versailles. At sixteen, she is one of Marie Antoinette's newest undertirewomen, and in awe of the glamorous queen and her opulent palace life. A budding designer, it's a dream come true to work with the beautiful fabrics and jewels in the queen's wardrobe. But every few weeks she returns home to visit her family in Paris where rumors of revolution are growing stronger. From her position working in the royal household, Giselle is poised to see both sides of the revolutionary tensions erupting throughout Paris. When her uncle, a retired member of the secret du roi, a spy ring that worked for the old King, Louis XV, suggests that she casually report the Queen’s actions back to him as a game, she leaps at the chance. Spying seems like an adventure and an exciting way to privately support the revolution taking the countryside by storm. She also enjoys using her insight from Versailles in lively debates with Léon Gauvain, the handsome and idealistic revolutionary who courts her. But as the revolution continues to gain momentum, and Giselle grows closer to the Queen, becoming one of the few trusted servants, she finds herself dangerously torn. Violence is escalating; she must choose where her loyalty truly lies, or risk losing everything...maybe even her head.

Modern Fashion Traditions

Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion
Author: M. Angela Jansen,Jennifer Craik
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1474229506
Category: Design
Page: 256
View: 4041

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Modern Fashion Traditions questions the dynamics of fashion systems and spaces of consumption outside the West. Too often, these fashion systems are studied as a mere and recent result of globalization and Western fashion influences, but this book draws on a wide range of non-Western case studies and analyses their similarities and differences as legitimate fashion systems, contesting Eurocentric notions of tradition and modernity, continuity versus change, and 'the West versus the Rest'. Preconceptions about non-Western fashion are challenged through diverse case studies from international scholars, including street-style identity in Bhutan, the influence of Ottoman cultural heritage on contemporary Turkish fashion design, and an investigation into the origins of the word 'fashion' in Chinese. Negotiating tradition, foreign influences and the contemporary global dominance of Western fashion cities, Modern Fashion Traditions will give readers a clearer understanding of non-Western fashion identities in the present. Accessibly written, this ground-breaking text makes an essential contribution to the study of non-Western fashion and will be an important resource for students of fashion history and theory, anthropology, and cultural studies.

Tudor Fashion

Dress at Court
Author: Eleri Lynn
Publisher: N.A
ISBN: 9780300228274
Category: Clothing and dress
Page: 208
View: 4707

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The captivating story of Tudor dress, its construction and symbolism, and the people who made and wore it The Tudor monarchs and their courtiers are some of the best-known figures in history. They continue, even today, to spark our curiosity and imagination. Their enduring popularity is no doubt partly due to the iconic portraits in which they are depicted in magnificent style, in farthingales and ruffs, furs and jewels, codpieces and cloaks, and vast expanses of velvet and silk. Far from being mere decoration, fashion was pivotal in the communication of status and power. It was used as a tool in securing and holding the tenuous Tudor throne and as a competitive weapon in the factions, intrigues and love-affairs of the court. This book presents new information about the fashions of the Tudor dynasty, offering fresh insight into their social and political milieu. Histories of Kings and Queens complement stories of unsung dressmakers, laundresses, and officials charged with maintaining and transporting the immense Tudor wardrobes from palace to palace. Evidence from rare surviving garments and textiles, original documents, fine and decorative art, and archaeological findings enhance our understanding of the Tudors and their courts. Handsomely illustrated, this sumptuous book contextualises Tudor dress within the buildings in which it was worn and fills in gaps in our knowledge of the period and its fascinating historical figures.

The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking

How to Hand Sew Georgian Gowns and Wear Them With Style
Author: Lauren Stowell,Abby Cox
Publisher: N.A
ISBN: 1624144535
Category: Crafts & Hobbies
Page: 240
View: 7607

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Create authentic, show-stopping 18th century gowns for reenactment or cosplay by using traditional hand sewing techniques from the era.With the popularity of Outlander, Penny Dreadful and Game of Thrones --as well as the popularity of conventions like San Diego Comic Con--fans are eager to create period gowns that emulate the characters they love. Lauren Stowell and Abby Cox, owners of the popular online store American Duchess, have teamed together to recreate four complete dresses from the 18th century. Whether readers are experienced seamstresses or are new to hand sewing, they won't want to miss this comprehensive guide. The projects include The English Gown, The Sacque, The Italian Gown and The Round Gown. Each project is broken down into easy-to-follow steps and Lauren and Abby tackle every detail--fabric, patterns, stitch techniques, accessories, shortcuts and troubleshooting. Whether you choose a romantic 1790s muslin gown or a grand sacque gown of silk taffeta, you will feel like you just stepped out of your favorite novel or period of history. Lauren and Abby's company, American Duchess, has been featured on Late Night with Seth Meyers, Reno Gazette Journal, the Today Show and Garmz.com. Their historically accurate shoes have been used in productions by the New York Metropolitan Opera, Ford's Theater, Broadway's Cinderella, The Jimmy Fallon Show and The Knick . Lauren and Abby have over 32k Facebook followers and over 34k followers on Instagram.

Alexandra

Princess and Queen
Author: David Duff
Publisher: HarperCollins
ISBN: N.A
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Page: 327
View: 300

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Dressing the Queen

The Jubilee Wardrobe
Author: Angela Kelly
Publisher: Royal Collection Publications
ISBN: 9781905686742
Category: Design
Page: 143
View: 5549

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When The Queen appears in public, she is naturally the centre of attention. What lies behind her unfailing sense of style? Here are first-hand accounts of those directly responsible for The Queen's wardrobe. Learn the process of creating the wardrobe for The Queen's Diamond Jubilee, and the many months spent in planning and working to deliver this special, historical year.

Mrs Ronnie

The Society Hostess Who Collected Kings
Author: Sian Evans
Publisher: Pavilion Books
ISBN: 1909881007
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Page: 300
View: 3418

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Margaret Greville of Polesden Lacey, who styled herself 'Mrs Ronnie', rose from obscure and humble origins to become a fabulously wealthy and ambitious society hostess, traveling the world and acquiring a portfolio of movie stars, monarchs, maharajahs and millionaires. Her long, rich and fascinating life of dark secrets, racy scandal and power- broking intrigue encompassed close relationships with royals from Edward Vii to George VI. But her fascination with charisma also led her to champion characters as diverse as Winston Churchill, Oswald Mosley, Mussoini and Hitler. No-one doubted her patriotism but some questioned her judgement. King Edward VII, who commended her 'positive genius for hospitality', appreciated her discretion in his affair with her friend Alice Keppel. Mrs Ronnie intrigued with King George V and Queen Mary, and advanced the courtship of 'Bertie and Elizabeth' who honeymooned at her luxurious country house, Polesden Lacey in Surrey. She disapproved of the Prince of Wales and had a ringside view of the Abdication Crisis, becoming a valued supporter of the new King and Queen. Mrs Ronnie was a complex and contradictory character and her astonishing rise from a straitened and obscure childhood to the position of 'favoured aunt' to the British Royal Family is a genuine 'rags to riches' tale.

Islam, Faith, and Fashion

The Islamic Fashion Industry in Turkey
Author: Magdalena Craciun
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1474234399
Category: Design
Page: 200
View: 8123

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The subject of religion and dress in Turkey has been debated at great length both in academia and the media. Through in-depth ethnographic research into the Turkish fashion market and the work of a category of new comers, namely headscarf-wearing fashion professionals, Islam, Faith and Fashion examines entrepreneurship in this market and the aesthetic desirability, religious suitability, and ethical credibility of fashionable Islamic dress. What makes a fashionable outfit Islamically appropriate? What makes an Islamically appropriate outfit fashionable? What are the conditions, challenges and constraints an entrepreneur faces in this market, and how do they market their products? Is the presumed oxymoronic nature of Islamic fashion a challenge or a burden? Through case studies and ethnographic portraits, Craciun questions the commercialization of Islamic dress and tackles the delicate and often incompatible relationship between clothing worn in recognition of religious belief and clothing worn purely because it is fashionable. This timely analysis of fashion, religion, ethics, and aesthetics presents dress as a disputed and a contested locus of modernity. Islam, Faith and Fashion will be essential reading for students of fashion, anthropology, and material and visual culture.

How to Read a Dress

A Guide to Changing Fashion from the 16th to the 20th Century
Author: Lydia Edwards
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1474286259
Category: Crafts & Hobbies
Page: 216
View: 8255

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Fashion is ever-changing, and while some styles mark a dramatic departure from the past, many exhibit subtle differences from year to year that are not always easily identifiable. With overviews of each key period and detailed illustrations for each new style, How to Read a Dress is an authoritative visual guide to women's fashion across five centuries. Each entry includes annotated color images of historical garments, outlining important features and highlighting how styles have developed over time, whether in shape, fabric choice, trimming, or undergarments. Readers will learn how garments were constructed and where their inspiration stemmed from at key points in history – as well as how dresses have varied in type, cut, detailing and popularity according to the occasion and the class, age and social status of the wearer. This lavishly illustrated book is the ideal tool for anyone who has ever wanted to know their cartridge pleats from their Récamier ruffles. Equipping the reader with all the information they need to 'read' a dress, this is the ultimate guide for students, researchers, and anyone interested in historical fashion.

Dressed

A Century of Hollywood Costume Design
Author: Deborah Nadoolman Landis
Publisher: Harper Collins
ISBN: 0060816503
Category: Photography
Page: 592
View: 9673

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From the lavish productions of Hollywood's Golden Age through the high-tech blockbusters of today, the most memorable movies all have one thing in common: they rely on the magical transformations rendered by the costume designer. Whether spectacular or subtle, elaborate or barely there, a movie costume must be more than merely a perfect fit. Each costume speaks a language all its own, communicating mood, personality, and setting, and propelling the action of the movie as much as a scripted line or synthetic clap of thunder. More than a few acting careers have been launched on the basis of an unforgettable costume, and many an era defined by the intuition of a costume designer—think curvy Mae West in I'm No Angel (Travis Banton, costume designer), Judy Garland in A Star is Born (Jean Louis and Irene Sharaff, costume designers), Diane Keaton in Annie Hall (Ruth Morley, costume designer), or Harrison Ford as Indiana Jones in Raiders of the Lost Ark (Deborah Nadoolman Landis, costume designer). In Dressed: A Century of Hollywood Costume Design, Academy Award-nominated costume designer Deborah Nadoolman Landis showcases one hundred years of Hollywood's most tantalizing costumes and the characters they helped bring to life. Drawing on years of extraordinary research, Landis has uncovered both a treasure trove of costume sketches and photographs—many of them previously unpublished—and a dazzling array of first-person anecdotes that inform and enhance the images. Along the way she also provides and eye-opening, behind-the-scenes look at the evolution of the costume designer's art, from its emergence as a key element of cinematic collaboration to its limitless future in the era of CGI. A lavish tribute that mingles words and images of equal luster, Dressed is one book no film and fashion lover should be without.